“I’ve had many a good blanket on this trip.” -Ste
And so I present a review of the accommodation encountered on our trip to Ukraine. Disclaimer: There is one hostel in Poland, and one hostel we didn’t actually stay in.
PTSM Hostel, Rzeszow

Our first night was spend in Rzeszow, Poland (pronounced shay-shouf). There is one hostel in town, cracking location right on the main square. We went to our excellent local Polish restaurant, Chopin, to book the hostel – they have no online booking, so we needed someone who spoke Polish to do the calling for us. They found this fairly amusing, and were perplexed at why we would want to go to Rzeszow, but excited we were going anyway.
We arrived in town late. It was about 22.30 before we got to the hostel. At 32zl each for a night, it was a bit more expensive than we expected. Bit of confusion paying, somehow ste lost about 20zl. We dropped our stuff off in the two private rooms and headed out for food. The lady at the reception, who spoke very very little english let us have an hour to get food – there was a 22.00 curfew! That was lovely of her. The rooms were very basic. Basically a standard Soviet style concrete building. A bit old and maybe crumbling in the corners. The eight of us shared two rooms of four. Bedding was included, but the mattresses were poor, one bed looked like a cannonball storage shelf. The rooms were plain, other than a negligible attempt at putting artwork on the wall. Nothing special, nothing besides the bare minimum for furnishings. Comfortably empty.
Location: 5/5 Excellent, on the main square!
Price: 2/5 cost 32zl for a night, but it is the only place in town.
Staff: 3/5 well, there was only one person there, very nice, but not much English.
Owner: n/a we never saw the owner.
Beds: 2/5 a bit better than sleeping on a stoop in the Netherlands, but bedding included.
Quality/Cleanliness: 3/5 Was pretty much like a worn down hotel.
Amenities: n/a there aren’t really any.
Retro Hostel Shevchenko

Our local questionable cafe across the street from the hostel.
Our bus dropped us off at the train station where we emptied the cash machines of their cash. We caught a cab to the hostel (40 hiryvna per car) Retro Hostel Shevchenko. Again, it was getting late so we dropped our stuff off and wend out to get food. Marushka (sp?) gave us advice on where to eat and pointed to a few things around town before we headed off. Her advice for food was spot on. It was a chain buffet restaurant, but served legit Ukranian food, cooked right in front of you. Returning to the hostel later we found that the toilets were still under construction. It was quite tricky to flush, having to fill the tank manually and then pull up the seal on the bottom of the tank, also by hand. Replacing it was a delicate act, and refilling it meant it would leak out before the next usage.
The dorm we stayed in was at the top of the building, a bit if a trek, but pretty much fine. There were bunk beds packed in, with perfectly acceptable beds. Nothing really of note here. There was rumored to be free wifi throughout the building, though we could not test this. There were two old computers in the lobby which provided internet for us. During our stay Marushka worked and worked and worked. She seemed to be the only person employed there. She was constantly cleaning or doing some admin work for the hostel. Even though she was constantly busy, she was always willing to have a chat or give advice to us about our trip. It is difficult to describe how lovely she was to us. She always offered help and chat when we were around. On the last day we stored our bags behind the reception desk, and she didn’t mind us hanging around in the evening. There was a ping pong table that we played on a bit. They only had one ball left though; we would have bought more but it was a sunday, and the sports shop was closed. Besides the remodeling in progress (apparently it has been in an unfinished state over a year now), the only downside was a strict closure of the hostel from 12-14:00. Apparently this is a throwback to the origins of hostels when they would be closed for cleaning and to force the young’ns out. This is the only hostel I have ever encountered to keep this rule up.
Location: 4/5 Minutes away from the old centre.
Price: 5/5 dirt cheap as far as I know.
Staff: 5/5 Marushka will probably do anything in the world for you.
Owner: n/a never encountered owner, rumored to be a vicious Siberian.
Beds: 3/5 they were fine.
Quality/Cleanliness: 4/5 toilets under construction.
Amenities: 3/5 cheap drinks/free juice when you leave and partial ping pong.
Hostel Kosmonaut
Whilst chatting with M, Ste and R(1) one night the owner of another hostel in L’viv came and joined our table. He was an Australian who ran Hostel Kosmonaut. He had a bit of a rant about the treatment of the workers at the hostel that we were staying at. He had a massive go at us when we let slip that we came because it was cheap to come here – “you come here because it is cheap? … you dont even know man …” He also got angry when I asked the difference between two pronunciations of the currency, I said that I noticed more Russian and older people said Gryvnia, while younger and more English speakers said Hryvnia. He responded by yelling that I shouldn’t even think about saying Gryvnia and “these people have been oppressed for a thousand years … and you say Gryvnia?!” Obviously there was some deeper meaning, but he didn’t seem to have any intention of actually answering my question. His passionate, close-minded anger was not restricted to just talking about Ukrainians he even got angry when i mentioned that I was heading back to the hostel to use the toilet – he angrily directed me to nearby toilet facilities (“don’t pee in the hostel man! Just go over there!”). On the bright side, he turned absolutely timid and sneaked away when a few young Ukrainian chaps showed up to join the chat.
Location: 3/5, not as near centre, but closer to a tram line.
Price: 3/5 more expensive than our hostel.
Staff: n/a they work 8 hours a day and are probably lovely.
Owner: 1/5 angry man.
Beds: n/a
Quality/Cleanliness: n/a never saw it.
Amenities: n/a.
Overnight train to Kiev


It was easy enough to get to our overnight train to Kiev. Just a little walk to a tram stop, then a 1 hiryvna ticket on the number 2 to the station. Last stop. Wonderful station, beautiful at night, and possibly the nicest waiting area in the world. Men’s toilets are free, women’s are 1 hiryvna.
The train was new and pretty much the nicest train ever. Second class, two compartments with four beds each. Everything we needed was in there. Sheets, blankets, pillows, towels, mattress covers, secure storage under the bottom beds and storage over the corridor for the top beds. A light to indicate which toilets were occupied and personal lights over each bed, as well as dim settings on the main lights and a volume control for the radio. There was a bit of a problem of no A/C for a while, though it cycled on a times during the night. It wasn’t too hot on the top bunk, but we certainly didn’t need the wool blankets we were provided with. It was quite a noisy night, and the train rocks a lot as it is fairly fast on poor tracks. This oddly didn’t provide any barrier to me getting to sleep easily and having a long sleep all night. It was a bit of a short trip (about 8 hours), so I didn’t really have enough time for a full nights sleep. All in all though, it was wonderful.
Location: 5/5 Its a train! L’viv AND Kiev!
Price: 4/5 good value at 164.05 hiryvna, transportation and accommodation.
Staff: 4/5 they offer tea and coffee in the morning.
Owner: 3/5 Ukranian state trains, seems fine.
Beds: 4/5 nice bed, mattress cover, and you wake up in a different city!
Quality/Cleanliness: 5/5 perfect, new!
Amenities: 4/5 hot drinks and a light in the compartment to tell you which toilet is free!
Kiev Lodging Hostel
We arrived in Kiev and got a taxi to drop us off at the hostel. We were taken exactly to the address and found the number. We could not find any sign indicating that there was a hostel. We looked up and down the street thinking that maybe were were dropped off at the wrong place, no luck. Plenty of restaurants and a couple of travel agencies, no hostel sign. It has been my experience that hostels do not always advertise their presence more than a small sign, but there was nothing to be seen, not even on the names by door bells. Finally, with the help of a man in a five star hotel down the road, we were able to find the door code and details of how to get in. We went through an anonymous door and up some stairs, to find a tiny piece of paper that said only “Backpackers” next to a door, so we rang the bell.
Shoes are not allowed past the entrance corridor, as the hostel is kept very very clean. Possibly clean to an obsessive point, but this should not be a problem for the short term visitor. There are showers and bathrooms near the entrance, and you may be able to get away with shoes in there. There are a couple of large dorms, and a staff closet to stash bags before checking in and after checking out. The staff are fine people to get along, but do not make the effort to talk to you. This is in contrast to many other hostels with bubbly, extroverted staff who immediately offer help with your stuff, advice and sneaky hints for the city and ask about your travels. Some people may like this more reserved breed of staff; but I find having a good bit of chat with people who know the area is much appreciated on any trip. There is a full kitchen where slices of ham disappear one at a time, but this is to be expected in any hostel really.
The owner of the hostel may offer a free drink around every now and then, but don’t get too excited. After following some of his strongest recommendations we were massively disappointed with the results. A local place to eat (with a large spoon out front) turned out to be a buffet with dismal food which was probably days or weeks old, and microwaved as you watched. The food was some of the lowest quality I have ever eaten, and was not even fully heated. Probably the least safe food I ate on the holiday (less safe than uncooked sausages, moldy bread and that strange beverage from the large metal tank on the side of the road). A market he recommended turned out to be a tourist tat market. A book he had prepared on the city mentioned wells found around the city as excellent places to drink. I had not seen any of these and asked about them, where I might find them. He only said something to the effect that I would not find them, and could not go to them. So I asked if the book was wrong, to which he looked blank. I asked “was it a lie?” that the book said they were everywhere (a more universal word?). He said there were none (for me at least?) and I said off hand that my hopes and dreams of drinking from the wells were smashed. Bad call. He kicked off on me immediately. He got very angry and assumed that I thought myself a university educated “big man” (a term that makes me shudder because of the connotations with warlords) and that he was stupid because he was a hostel owner at the age of 40. I will spare the details, but the idea here is he completely kicked off on me in a fairly unrelated manner. He later told the others in the group that the water would not be any good for us for biological reasons, as we were not used to the organisms in the local water. When I returned moments later to give an apology for any misunderstanding, he responded with a fairly blank look.
On the basis of the poor quality of the hostel owners recommendations, I drank some water from a fountain I found in a cemetery. It pretty much tasted like the tap water, which I read is fine biologically, but may have high levels of lead in it. We visited hidropark later as he had told us that it was disgusting. The water was somewhat clear and cold (sure, Chernobyl drains there, but thats less of an immediate threat than the agricultural waste in the Mississippi River that may have exacerbated a staph infection I once had). Hidropark was lovely, and had free beaches, so was again, the exact opposite of what the owner said.
Back to the accommodation review, the hostel was pristine. The dorm we slept in was fairly nice. It was a bit easy to tip the bunk beds over when climbing to the top, if nobody was weighing down the bottom. The mattresses were fairly poor, and rested on s hard but thin slab of masonite, or something similar. There was air conditioning, which was pretty lovely after a hot day out in kiev. No food allowed in rooms, but drinks are.
Hard to find hostel, but really nice, just keep a low profile around the owner and staff.
Location: 5/5 cant argue with dead central, even if it is hard to find.
Price: 3/5 more expensive than most, but cheapest in kiev.
Staff: 3/5 seemed fine, nothing special.
Owner: 1/5 makes horrible recommendations, thinks everyone is calling him stupid.
Beds: 2/5 completely shot mattresses on top of Masonite.
Quality/Cleanliness: 5/5 pristine.
Amenities: 5/5 ticks all the boxes, +free drinks, big telly and air conditioning.
Overnight PKP train from Kiev to Rzeszow

We exchanged our last hiryvna for dollars and euros and spend our change on food. Our train from Kiev to Rzeszow was our most expensive bit. Around 762 hiryvna, it was a 17 hour train ride which involved an international crossing, two customs inspections and a gauge change. There may be cheaper options, such as only taking the train to Przemysl but changing there before the gauge change. Also, stopping short of the border, taking a different train or a bus across the border may end up much cheaper (after all, it only took us roughly £20 to make it to Kiev). Taking a bus or walking across the border would be much more hassle (it was trouble free on the train) but much much cheaper. Also, it would be possible to take a lower class carriage if not going beyond Przemysl.
The carriage conductor was a lovely man. He escorted us to our compartments and provided us with a washcloth and soap. The compartments had a bottle of water and a sink. Three beds stacked on one wall, the middle one folded down to make the back seat of the bench when not sleeping. When we found a problem with keeping one of our beds stable, the conductor solved the problem – by swapping our compartments. At night when people wanted to have a drink before bed, we just had to ask the conductor, and he directed us to someone on the train who was willing to share their smuggled drinks for a cheap. The train was quite hot. It didn’t take long before all the guys had their shirts off leaning out of the windows as we went along. Thankfully we were able to lower our windows in the compartment, but you have to hold them down for some time to make sure they don’t spring back up. We were able to keep ham cool by dangling it out of the window as we went. The carriage was nearly empty besides us, or at least nobody hung out in the corridor or with their doors open as much as us.
The train was excellent. Being a bit sweaty just added to the ambiance, but it cooled down well as the sun went down. It was a great train. Excellent trip, plus pretty much the nicest sleep all holiday. Surprisingly, even with the window open, I think it was quieter than the other night train… not sure how that happened. It may be the case that our previous train was multiple units, while this one was locomotive driven. That is just pure speculation, though we definitely had a locomotive the second time around.
Location: 5/5 exactly where we wanted to be. Its a train!
Price: 0/5 pretty much the most expensive thing on the trip, next time take a lower class and get off before border crossing.
Staff: 5/5 lovely guys, free tea or coffee, sorts out problems in rooms happily, shares stash of smuggled goods if you ask.
Owner: 4/5 I generally rate PKP trains highly.
Beds: 5/5 quite possibly the best sleep I got all trip.
Quality/Cleanliness: 4/5 tidy, clean compartments, thoughtful interior with everything we needed, plus a few nice surprises.
Amenities: 5/5 had pretty much everything we could (and did) ask for. Ensuite sink, washing kit included.
In defense of a hero. Governor William Winter.
November 17, 2010I have said before that Governor William Winter is a hero of mine. Any politician serious about education can win my vote. My dads high regard for Governor Winter forms the roots of my admiration of the governor whose name is on the State Archives building. It is this bias that caused me to investigate further when I found an editorial in the Clarion Ledger claiming that he was ‘demonizing the right.’ What a crude thing to say about such a great person.
Andy Taggart was apparently shocked by a quote of Governor Winter’s in an earlier article. He calls the quotes “really outlandish” and states his disagreement. I find his assertions quite outlandish myself, and like him feel that “his remarks … should not be allowed to go unchallenged.”
This first instance appears to be a classic case of a quote taken out of context. Governor Winter did indeed compare “the mindset of the tea party movement of 2010 to that of the segregationists of the 1960′s.” It is the next sentence in which Taggart goes completely off the mark. Taggart says that Governor Winter was suggesting that “people in the tea party are just not willing to recognize the rights of others.” However, if one were to read the entire quote, it would be obvious that it is a refusal to compromise that is linking the two mindsets. Governor Winter does not say anything about denying people rights, Taggart is the only one making this insinuation.
This is an appropriate comparison, it seems, as House Minority Leader John Boehner said himself “This is not a time for compromise.” So Governor Winter is comparing the mindset of people who would not compromise to the mindset of people who say they will not compromise. Sounds pretty fitting to me.
One could still say that it might be a bit insensitive to compare people in the Tea Party to segregationists (as this clearly offends the sensitivities of Mr. Taggart). One might ask, why would Governor Winter make that particular comparison, why not compare it to a more recent example of Democrats and Republicans refusing to compromise? Well, we have to look no further than the same quote from Governor Winter “When I ran for governor in 1967, anyone who suggested a compromise toward desegregation just couldn’t win.” There is your answer. Governor Winter suggested that comparison because it was incredibly relevant to his experience running for… Governor. We don’t call him Governor Winter for nothing, after all.
Mr. Taggart should be ashamed of taking that quote even slightly out of context. He should be doubly ashamed of insinuating that such a respectable statesman as Governor Winter was only trying to denigrate those who did not hold his opinion.
Taggart next takes umbrage with this quote: “We had a civil war in the middle of the 19th century because we couldn’t compromise.” Here Governor Winter is putting a little dramatic illustration to what can happen when people don’t compromise (see also the 1995 Federal Government shutdown as a less dramatic example). This could be taken as a statement of fact. We probably all agree that there was a civil war in the middle of the 19th century. It is fairly clear that this war was the result of some problem in between two groups, neither of which would budge enough to come to mutual agreement. This is pretty much the definition of “not compromising” seeing as a compromise is generally an agreement reached when both parties make concessions. Unless Taggart believes that war was the concession that both sides made, then we should all be able to accept that Governor Winter was making a pretty uncontroversial statement of fact.
I see that Taggart is shocked that one can compromise on the issue of slavery. “Really, Governor? Where is it, exactly, that one compromises on the issue of slavery?” Well, Taggart, there are a lot of places that one could have compromised on the subject of slavery. Of course, from the perspective of 2010, this does sound ridiculous, after all, we do not have slavery here in the United States. To say that we should “compromise” on the issue is absolutely ridiculous. I am sure that Taggart is saying “there is no compromise on slavery – we simply do not have it.” And he is exactly right, in 2010.
But we must keep in mind that Governor Winter was not talking about 2010. He was talking about “the middle of the 19th century.” That was a time when there was slavery. There were, in fact, compromises on slavery up until that time when “had a civil war … because we couldn’t compromise.” Starting with the 3/5s compromise in the constitution, continuing to the Missouri Compromise, and then the slavery compromises in 1850. These were all compromises revolving around the issue of slavery. If Mr. Taggart is unfamiliar with the history of the civil war, I can recommend a few excellent teachers of high school history who could probably fill him in.
I am not saying that we should have kept on compromising over slavery and maintained that peculiar institution any longer – I am simply saying that it was a failure to agree, a failure to compromise which led to the civil war. (I do not speak for Governor Winter, but I do not think that he supports slavery either). This shouldn’t be controversial at all. Governor Winter made a statement of fact about the civil war, which Taggart seems to have felt indicated that Governor WInter thought the end of slavery was a bad thing. There is no element of opinion in that statement, any conclusion drawn from that about Governor Winters opinion is purely speculative.
Taggart then claims that Democrats plan to compare Conservatives to people who caused the civil war. Well, that sounds pretty silly, but we shall see.
Mr Taggart was correct though, there were some “really outlandish comments” that “should not be allowed to go unchallenged.” (You can check out the original post to see how nicely these out of context quotes go together).
In the interest of keeping this post shorter than it could be, I’ll reserve all that excitement for the next post. Coming in a few minutes.